Kering Invites 10 Designers to Reimagine Sustainable Materials

Working with this material was similar to using standard materials, though it demanded greater attention to seam strength and thickness, according to Buccinnà. Because the material was developed to mimic traditional leather, Buccinnà's requests mirrored those made to a conventional tannery. He selected two different weights – one for the bag and another for the garment – and experimented with various adhesives to achieve the desired drape. "We were also able to develop a custom color outside the standard palette, which was essential to achieving the conceptual intention of the garment."

Innovation requires iteration

Iteration emerged as a recurring theme. Bhumi, the brainchild of Dutch designer Emma Van Engelen, is renowned for its 3D-printed bags, which have graced celebrities like Julia Fox and Nicola Coughlan from Bridgerton. For the Wardrobe Edition, Van Engelen collaborated with BioCirflex3D, a bio-based, fully compostable, and recyclable alternative to conventional 3D-printing filaments, created by Israeli startup Balena.

Van Engelen described the start as challenging. While conventional filaments have been extensively tested by various makers, offering predictable issues with established solutions, BioCirflex3D necessitated considerable trial and error. "As soon as I realized I could physically stretch the filament between my hands, I knew it was going to be a very different challenge," she remarked. For weeks, every print failed as the material stretched around the gears and clogged the machine. Unable to seek advice from peers for troubleshooting, Van Engelen spent several months making it work. "The emphasis on experimentation, creativity, and quality rather than quantity made this one of my favorite projects I have been part of."

On the opposite end of the textile spectrum, London-based designer Maximilian Raynor partnered with the Madagascar-based accessories brand Made for a Woman to create ready-to-wear pieces from their distinctive raffia material. They soon discovered that the artisans would be unable to produce the entire garment due to its complexity and the limitations of their technical expertise. Consequently, the artisans shifted their focus to creating panels, which Raynor's team then cut and sewed in London. "Making a textile of such intricacy is an extremely time-consuming effort and, together with the artisans from Made for a Woman, we found a balance between ambitious, unique design and what was humanly possible," Raynor stated. "I’m proud to work with a material that people are not used to seeing in such an extreme, elevated, high fashion context."